Fine woodworking with a hardware store saw.

Fine woodworking with a hardware store saw.

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20 Replies to “Fine woodworking with a hardware store saw.”

  1. If making a new handle is an afternoon's project, maybe that's one you should teach us! 🙂
    Really refreshing to hear properly justified critique of cheap tools, not just dismissing them out of hand. Keep up the good work.

  2. The video has a crazy amount of jitter going on, definitely worth trying to correct for in post =( (compare the stable 2:40 to the super jitter 6:40 for example)

  3. Great video, you should check out the Aldi workzone saw set, you get 3 saws for around $20. I got a set the saws get better once they get a little use.

  4. I would probably suggest spending like $40-45 ish on getting a cheap circular saw. It’ll do everything the dewalt hand saw can do and more. It should last for years. I have an old kraftsmin circular saw I bought at Walmart over 10 years ago still going strong.

  5. I recently bought myself a relatively cheap PTFE-coated 7TPI saw for breaking down big stuff like tree trunks (from Axminster in the UK if anyone's wondering) & it actually provides a really nice, smooth cut. It's probably not one I'm ever going to sharpen as there's no set on the teeth (plus some fancy geometry) so I have no idea how long it's going to last, but for the money I don't really mind.

    What I do take issue with is the black coating rubbing off in the kerf, as you had there. It's meant to help prevent the saw from stalling if it's squeezed by the wood, but overall I really don't think it's as good as simply rubbing down a plain metal blade with some oil. Think those coated blades are only worth it for stuff where you're cutting nowhere near your final line.

  6. Vintage pictures of carpenters using Disstons, Atkins, and other handsaws when power tools weren't common often show them working with a sawbench., which is similar in proportion to the Roman bench you are building. They are leaning into the work, sometimes clamping it with a knee, and cutting downward at an angle. This increases the control of the sawcut, and is also much less fatiguing when cutting for long periods. Chris Schwarz comments on this in one of his books or articles.

  7. Some hand saws have a few teeth raked and set differently— usually at the handle end of the blade— to make it easier to start a cut. You might ask, “Which saws are those?” Well, I don’t remember. But it’s something to look for.

  8. Have you checked out euro bowsaws made for ripping and x cutting ?. They cut straight, quickly. can be reshapened, Got mine 10 yrs ago from highland hardware woodcraft .traditional woodworker. Or if on a budget just buy the blade and make your own handle

  9. Is it possible/practical (is the steel good enough) to grind the hardened teeth with an angle grinder when they get dull and cut new ones on your own? With a custom handle one has already made (-; this might seem like an interesting option.

  10. You know what they say about guys with enormous hands….yeah, that's right…not easy to find gloves that fit…..

    Where were you going with that?

  11. I bought the Irwin English version of the saw without the black coating in 2015 and it has been a decent saw. Even with my better saws I am not a great sawyer ( I know practice practice practice) so for the price it is a good buy for my needs.

  12. Just for the heck of it, try starting your kirf closer to the handle by starting about 1/4 of the way from the handle and then pushing your first couple of longer cuts from the handle to about half of the blade and then back to the handle., not with the front of the blade. As you know, those blades flex, especially from about 2/3 out. If you start at the handle first you should have more accurate control. It should only take a couple of those half strokes before you can go the full-ish length. Another thing you can try sometime, maybe on a junker, lol, is to file the teeth shorter. maybe half to 3/4 the height of normal, yet still pointed and sharp, for about 3 or 4 inches at whichever end you choose, which would also be the end that you'd want to start your kirfs with. The smaller teeth will be less aggressive and will take smaller bites, but, allowing you to quickly set the kirf before moving on to longer strokes. Also, don't try to over power the saw. If it's sharp and has a proper set, gravity should do most of the work for you. You can push and pull faster, but, only to a point, finding the speed at which the blade stays straight is all you need to be concerned with. Even as long as 50 years ago I never met a carpenter who thought it good to make his hand saw cut fast like a reciprocating saw.

  13. for crosscut, i prefer my Stanley Hacksaw Frame ‫(Model 1-15-122)
    , simple hefty/weighty steel frame, very cheap – around 4 – 6 usd , blades are cheap, has a cut depth of 4.5" .. with a hand plane and shooting board it's a very good option for cross cutting .. the cut of the hacksaw on wood is not far away from straight or the performance of a good backsaw – specially if the blade is a very good one

  14. I would have been curious about the first saw you showed in this video in comparison to how it would have faired with the Dewalt and the other vintage saw as far as speed and finish of the cut were concerned.

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